Something I prepared ealier
Quote:
To buy new or used...
Purchasing a vehicle can make one very nervous knowing the financial burden of a depreciating asset, more so when the vehicle is used and you're unaware of the history and afraid of buying an expensive lemon. A nightmare if the car is already yellow!
I'm not an expert in cars nor vehicle sales for that matter, but below is some information personal information that may prove useful if yourself/friend/family are considering purchasing a used vehicle. Apart from the initial plummet in value that scares most people from purchasing a new vehicle, the guarantee is there on the history and working order of the vehicle. All new vehicles come with a warranty and that is put in place to comfort the buyer and hence the promised guarantee. More often than not one can not afford brand spanking showroom new and there are plenty of good buys for used vehicles out there.
They way I've always seen it kilometers don't mean for much other than a record for how far the vehicle has travelled, and estimate to what the motor has gone through to deliver that vehicle to all the destinations. It comes down to the owner(s) and how the vehicle has been looked after. There is no reason a 100,000kms looked after car can't be better than a new company car that's thrashed around. However there are typical problems/maintenance issues to look for in a vehicle. Below is a more detailed description FYI. The articles main focus is toward MPS vehicles, but the idea goes across the board
- - - - - - - -
If possible - meet the owner...not the girlfriend, not the wife, the owner. You can tell a lot by a person. More often than not you can read them like a book. For eg I bought my car from a middle aged retired parametric. He seemed nice and calm and down to earth to talk to. If the owner is of odd character, heavy smoker, beer in both hands, rough as nuts, every second word is f*** and can't string a common sentence together, chances are he probably does not give a rats about his car and hasn't looked after it very well! No offence to anyone but that's just my personal observation
Visual Inpection This includes the general appearance of the vehicle in question. How's the paintwork? Are there front, rear, or side scratches. (This includes under the car and evidence to how fast they take speed bumps) also look for missing paint on the edges of the door. It suggests the open their door and hit things. Also look for over spray or freshly sprayed areas - this signifies some sort of repair on the vehicle. A visual inspection can also include belts, pulleys, oil, air filter, wiring (dodgy after market wiring) scratches indicating removal of parts. A common thing is stock cars come with a line of paint marked on the bolts as a quality assurance from the manufacturer. If there is no paint on common bolts (engine mount etc) the car has had some work done on it. Clean engine? Interior wear and tear? Coolant leaks? Rubber boots on the drive shaft broken? Grease/oil spray around the engine and underneath the vehicle? Check the tyre wear, have they done burnouts? Is the outside out the tyres worn suggesting fast driving and intense cornering?
Working order Do the wipers work? Squirters? The A/C work and the compressor is fine, getting cold air? The lighting including headlights, parks, tail lights, interior lights. The speakers have not been hammered and blown? Turn the volume up too. To a lesser extent check all the mirrors are ok. My drivers vanity mirror had been smashed somehow.
Engine and performance Initially start the engine, listen to it idling, feel free to question the seller at this point about mechanical work done, maintenance and anything you feel necessary. Does it idle rough? Can you hear excessive noise from the valves/tappers. Go to the exhaust, listen is it misfiring? It will seem to backfire a little on cold start that is normal. Give the accelerator a hit in neutral (if the seller does not mind) about 4-5,000RPM is fine. If white OR blue smoke comes out I would be very concerned. If black smoke comes out the exhaust that's actually a good sign. 1 - its normal and 2 they probably haven't given a good thrash in ages cause its all built up in the exhaust!
Take it for a drive After checking it over and you're happy, take the vehicle for a drive. See if the vehicle runs smoothly through the gears. If the seller permits, but your foot down (about 4-4,500 RPM) does it pull well? No noises under acceleration? Turn left to right and left to right, clicking noises? Suspension problems? Take a few driveways and/or speed bumps? Noises? Also, and this depends on how many kilometres (generally) How's the clutch? I usually change gears quickly and see if it bites under quick throttle. Another way is park the car, lift the hand brake and in 3rd gear release the clutch slowly. If the engine starts revving the clutch is slipping and not holding. If the car wants to go (pulling) or even stalls the clutch is engaging and thus, holding. Brakes (including handbrake) speed up and bit and plant the brakes a bit (not need to freak the seller out in the passenger seat and activate ABS!)
"Redbook" - Car Prices - Search Car Prices & Values Online - Red Book the value of the vehicle and see if its reasonable
Keep in mind it can never hurt getting a mechanic out to have a look if you want. Log books are great but not essential. Some people do actually know how to service a car. Paying a mazda dealer half a grand do stuff up your car just for a stamp in a book that suggests its been looked after is the way I see it. Some mechanics actually screw up your car or don't actually check things, rather just tick all the boxes.
Happy shopping, and enjoy your purchase!
There are a few links to (common faults/problems) but all on the ozMPSclub forum.
From my experience AND stuff I know (that's not necessarily been my problem)
-Seals (check the turbo seals if possible, let the car idle for 5mins, also check water pump sealts)
-REM (Rear engine mount and well as side mount is worth a check)
-Tyre wear front and back (not a problem but if wear is uneven you may need a wheel alignment and possibly front camber adjustment)
-Rear Diff bolts and mounts
-Upper Ball joints on the control arm, both mine have been replaced
-Front brake rotors might need replacing. I've done both of mine, replaced with DBA 4000 series slotted
Hope that helps
_________________
M P S - 6 -
RR | K&N POD | CP-E CAI | COBB TIP | ETS 3.25" TMIC | CP-E DP | 3" Zorst | K/Springs | DBA 4000 Slotted Rotors | Cp-e REM | 2XS SSP | SURE Countershift | Corksport strut | Hypertech Front Brace | Alpine Type S 12" sub + MRP-M500 V-Power Amplifier | Custom Grille | STi Front Lip | Carbon Fibre Mirrors | Shark Fin | 8000K HID | Custom MPS/Nurburgring Decals | Twin DEFI gauges |
Black rims
Red callipers
"My Lug Nuts require more torque than your Honda makes..."
I hope its a good price coz that is a high mileage for a 2007 6,make sure while looking over it that it is running and check for smoke,good luck. 
