Why do people think upgrading rods & pistons will stop this happening..... it will not. If the VVT goes and the engine jumps timing then something has got to give. I would not panic as it is still a rare event.

If you put your foot down in the higher gears at lowish rpm you will feel that "slight stumble" feeling which is usually knock occurring due to the load on the engine at the lower rpm - just change to a gear lower and this problem should not happen.

If you have VT, as Alex mentioned, you will need to lower the VVT in the lower RPM range just like the table I posted earlier as a prevention. Dolf - Maybe wise to take some logs to see if all looks good

Found a vid with VVT problem showing noise at startup. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yV6AXcAh ... r_embedded

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2010 MPS3 Mk2 Forged / Sleeved Engine, CS Cams and Crower Valve Springs, BNR S4 Turbo, HTP 3.5" Intake, HPFP Internals, 2050psi Fuel Rail Relief Valve, JMF Intake Manifold, DNP Exhaust Manifold, Dual OCC Setup, Cobb Turbo Back Exhaust, Airtec FMIC, Port Methanol Injection ..... Tuning in progress with a goal of 480-500bhp :-)

So sorry to hear this has happened to you as well.

Im not sure you have the car still, but in my garage I have a complete block (the rods are slightly bent) and head which would be ideal for a forged rebuild.

For the record 5th / 6th gear low rpm pulls are a real no no in this engine you blow your engine over time. Im getting my car back fingers crossed on Monday and think I may get a DCR vvt actuator.

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Gone but not forgotten Cosmic Blue MK1 MPS

Now a BMW E39 M5 V8 Baby!

Cheers guys

Will look into it this weekend and take what you've said on board

Thanks again

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Dolf
3MPS Mk I Aero in Sunlight Silver - some say anaemic looking but I say f**k you! B-)

Sad sad story that's for sure. Good luck with future vehicles Phil. Keep ya head up.

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ZZB March 2013 :(

Hope you get back on track soon.
It sounds like the VVT failure was actually caused by the engine failure instead of the other way around. In engines with VVT if the timing chain goes or oil pressure drops then the engine will run itself to a stop causing minimal damage. It sounds like your cars engine has been getting the wrong fuel all its life. Also if you put the foot down in the <2500 rpms you are causing detonation in the cylinders.

Don't jump to conclusions welshy. I've never put anything less than V-power in any of my petrol turbo cars over the years, so please don't make assumptions. We can all sit there and guess what happened, but that's all it is at the end of the day, just pure guesswork.
And to add what has been stated by my mapper Alex, that the in-built safety regarding timing advance (especially low down in the rev range) was another step to reduce the onset of detonation.

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Even still these cars are designed to run on 95ron fuelas per EU regs but as Phil has said he used Vpower anyway so may be just bad luck but still a nightmare

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S.W.A.L.R.

** Warning this post may contain sarcasm and/or banter.......it's your decision to get upset about it **

Are you sure about that? My car manual states quite clear ONLY 98 RON! Maybe in Spain those regulations are different.

Cheers.

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Mazda 6 MPS / GFB BPV / RX-8 8 x 18" Wheels / Bilstein B8 & Eibach Pro-Kit / Stainless Steel Brake Lines / Autoexe Front Strut Bar / SU Rear Brace Bar / SURE Anchors, CounterShift / Ralco RZ STS stage 2 / SURE Dreadnaught & Torq R6 70a / GrimmSpeed EBCS (Interrupt) / 621 g. AGS Shift Knob / CorkSport TMIC / CorkSport Power Series 3" Intake / EBC RedStuff / Disabled EGR / AutoTech HPFP internals / CorkSport catted downpipe / NGK 1 step colder / BNR stage 3 v2

Yep deffo says it in manual but states you may see some power loss

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S.W.A.L.R.

** Warning this post may contain sarcasm and/or banter.......it's your decision to get upset about it **

The cars can run on 95RON quite easily, just a drop in performance

My teg said the same thing. Thing is....if theres no 97+ at your garage, you have to put in 95.

I havent with the MPS, but did with the Teg and it was fine

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To do: keep it on the road.

I think it's a can but not recommended situation. Not all petrol stations in the UK offer higher grade petrol. My local Asda doesn't but Shell and Jet do.

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ZZB March 2013 :(

Wow, just seen this. Gutted for you!!
But I think you've just been extremely unlucky, there are really only a handful of engine failiures when you consider how many of these cars are sold worldwide.
I have my dashhawk set to alarm at anything over 1.5KR and have only seen it flag up a few times at wot. At cruise though it's constantly going off, makes me wonder wether it is genuine KR and not just "fuel consumption optimisation" as I have been told.

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Tuned with by

K1 Rods//Wiseco Pistons//CX Racing FMIC//JBR Widepath Intake//Custom 3" TBE//Grimmspeed EBCS//Forge BPV//JBR SSP//JBR RSB//JBR Side Mounts//JBR BSD and Baffle//Sure TIG Set//Sure R3 RMM//KMD Internals//XS Power Exhaust Manifold//P&P Intake Manifold//Fidanza Flywheel and Eagle Motorsports Organic Compound Clutch//GTX3071//DVC30 Meth Kit//3 Gauge Pod.....430 WHP SO FAR...

Out of curiosity mate, did you buy from a dealer or from a private owner? My experience with the dealers has not been good. They sell the car, and then don't even recognise you. If I were you though, I would bite the bullet and get a used engine and keep the car longer.. then again, you have already spent quite a few quid getting those mods, so it must have been quite heavy on the pocket! Here is to hoping that you recover financially, and get a fast car real quick

I played with VVT tables yesterday and looks like retarded VVT @ lower rpms has fixed spool up knock a bit. But higher values @ high rpms caused lower maf readings (g/s), however if retarded (closer to 0>5000rpm) improved g/s but caused minor knock as well

Imo those cars can pop at any time no matter of what service/tune/driver. Hundreds of people trying to figured out why but no solid answers/recommendation so far. Chances we pop in stock form the same as in modified...I recall 4-5 blowups in past 2 years

Also don’t get your engines rebuild because of panic attack. There are well designed sophisticated machinery and really shouldn’t be touched until something goes wrong

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Self-tuned with | Lenso D1R & Avon ZZ3 | CS TMIC | DO STG1 Meth Inj | HTP TIP | Forge BPV V2 | M2 Catless DP | ReWorked K04 hybrid | 3Bar Map sensor |MSCAI as SRI | NGK LTR7IX | CBE | KMD V2.1 HPFP internals | FCM delete | disabled VTCS | JBR SSP STG2 | JBR Spherical knob | JBR EGR delete | SURE TorqR6 RMM | SURE Element Shield | TurbineTech Diff mount | 6000K HID Fogs&White LEDs | Boost gauge | DashHawkV2.51 | sport AERO rear bumper | C-MOD grill | MTEC slotted rotors | EBC Yellowstuff | Throttle coolant bypass | STI 06 lip |

Higher VVT timing over 5250 does not help much since the turbo runs out of breath, Injector duty cycle goes over 80%, and the engine reduced the load to cope with the increased combustion temps. This results in lowered WDGC as well. So on a stock turbo you cannot pull more than x g/s unless u fix the injector suty cycle to go 100%. My VVT tables are the same as Justin's. Another funny thing I have noticed is that Tesco Momentum makes my car less "laggy" in lower rpm's but induces significantly more KR around 4000 - 6000 rpm's. I think its probably due to higher ethanol content used to just bump the octane rating from 95 to 99. Sheel V power makes the car a bit lumpy in the lower revs, but has significantly less KR in the higher rpm's.