Sat in the back seat of my car today and asked my dad to give it some welly. Under extreme torque in first gear between 3500 and 5000 rpm it feels like your sitting on a washing machine set on spin dry Pretty sure its rear drive related but Mazda mechanics are so unhelpful. Next resort is to pay £££'s for them to start replacing parts but that is not an option for me as bought car on a budget. Was thinking of taking out warranty through the net for £200 12 months, then after x-mas wack in a claim and get it sorted through that???

Any other suggestions would be appreciated, love the car but putting foot down just feels like a time bomb waiting to go off

Go take a picture of your rear tyres and post it up. Whilst your there, run your hand around the tyre and see if you can feel any stepping on the inner/outer shoulders. Should be smooth, run your hand one way and then the other, it it feels different from one way to the other, the tyres are stepped and could cause this symptom. If so, swap wheels front to back and re-test.

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As said before if the car def never done it when the handbrake was applied a little then it surely has to be something to do with the rear drivetrain components! When my rear driveshaft was at its worst I had the same washing machine feeling through the whole car.

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2010 MPS3 Mk2 Forged / Sleeved Engine, CS Cams and Crower Valve Springs, BNR S4 Turbo, HTP 3.5" Intake, HPFP Internals, 2050psi Fuel Rail Relief Valve, JMF Intake Manifold, DNP Exhaust Manifold, Dual OCC Setup, Cobb Turbo Back Exhaust, Airtec FMIC, Port Methanol Injection ..... Tuning in progress with a goal of 480-500bhp :-)

The 6MPS is very sensitive to anything that is not quite right in the rear axle configuration. For example, I let my rear tyre pressures drop to 35psi and I got the traditional whine at 48-50mph. Pumped them up to 38psi and the problem went away.

If it was tyres then don't you think it would be evident in other gears?

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2010 MPS3 Mk2 Forged / Sleeved Engine, CS Cams and Crower Valve Springs, BNR S4 Turbo, HTP 3.5" Intake, HPFP Internals, 2050psi Fuel Rail Relief Valve, JMF Intake Manifold, DNP Exhaust Manifold, Dual OCC Setup, Cobb Turbo Back Exhaust, Airtec FMIC, Port Methanol Injection ..... Tuning in progress with a goal of 480-500bhp :-)

Stepped tyres cause all sort of funny vibrations when loading them up. Just try swapping front to back.

Failing that it could be a driveshaft/cv joint about to fail. It's hard to pinpoint these sorts of issues when it only happens at a very specific instance.

My next port of call if I was looking at the car would be to attach the ChassisEar and try to track the resonance.

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Hey all!!

Latest on the first gear vibration... Swapped wheels / tires around and made no difference. Mazda have completely no idea at all, taken it too two separate local dealers and they do not seem clued up on the MPS 6 (Maybe due to its rarity). Can anyone recommend a specialist I can take it to in the North East who can possibly help? First gear is a nightmare

XO motorsport

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To do: keep it on the road.

Well, i'm re-opening this thread for an update on my vibration issue...

Its definitely coming from drive train as have installed the rear diff de-activation switch mod which by the way has improved my fuel consumption on runs...

Its booked into into a prop shaft specialist on Saturday to go on a jig etc... After doing my homework the symptoms when under load at low speed point towards an out of balance prop shaft or bad 'u' joint but Mazda looked at these and said they were ok. Saying that I don't trust them at all. The mechanic looked half cut

Hoping to resolve my issue as really want to mod it up an extract extra BHP from the engine but reluctant to do so with this lurking over me. May cause some damage.. Again this only happens when under maximum torque in first !!!

Thanks for the update...It's good the rear diff de-activation has helped to isolate the problem and I hope the specialists can help you out without it being a big bill

Personally modding would be the last thing on my mind with having a problem, it could be the weak link and when modded it may be more exposed and cause further damage.

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Trying to resist modifying my new Mazda 3 mk2 MPS! viewtopic.php?f=86&t=13680

Update !!! Specialists did not have the correct gear to diagnose the fault so at the moment I am hanging high and dry...

One quick question... When I use my switch to de-activate the rear diff it sometimes re-activates its self even though the switch is still turned off! A quick flick of it on and off again and its de-activated.

Why would this be? It seems to do it when i come to a stop? Is there not another way to turn off the diff but permanently?